After the drama of the Nile River Rafting, going to Sipi in far eastern Uganda last weekend was a relaxing treat. Sipi is located on the slopes of Mt. Elgon almost all the way to Kenya. Getting there (and back) was as painful as usual, and we once again had to break our rule of not riding boda bodas in Uganda. Shalina and I decided after this trip that really our rule needed to be amended to "we only ride boda bodas up twisty scary mountain roads where we're less likely to die than in Kampala"
We arrived safely Sunday evening and were too pooped from rafting to do much of anything, but it was great to just sit around and read and drink in the scenery. This is the view from the porch we liked to eat on--you can just make out the three waterfalls that are part of Sipi River's path down the mountain.
We set out with a guide Monday morning to do the hike to the three waterfalls. Our guide was dressed in jeans and galoshes, but was concerned WE weren't wearing appropriate hiking clothing in our shorts and Merrils/Keens. He told us we'd go up to the very top to the third waterfall and then work our way back down to the hotel.
The "trails" we followed were often barely visible, and crossed through people's yards and fields--we were very glad we'd hired a guide for the day. (This photo is from later on when the rain clouds were threatening--it was clear and hot on the way up!)
When we got to the top (after stopping several times to suck air while reassuring ourselves it was the humidity and elevation that was getting to us, not that we were beat up and pitifully out of shape) we loved the close up view of the 60-odd meter waterfall--the smallest of the three!
Since we were already sweaty we decided to go for "showers" at the bottom of the waterfall, and got completely soaked. It was wonderful!
The view from the top was lovely. I love green jungley mountain-scapes! With rainbows!
We hiked down to the top of the next falls, following the river's pathway, pausing often for photo ops. Unfortunately we were soaked and sweaty so we don't look the cutest on any of the close-ups. :)
We paused at the top of the falls for a while for some "classroom time" where our guide taught us about all things local--words and greetings, how to grow and make coffee and local brew, the history of Mt. Elgon, and crazy circumcision rituals. Clearly I was the most excited about the fields of coffee berries!
There were sweet caves under the second waterfall that we didn't go into for fear of bats, rabies, and Ebola, but we got a nice shower from passing underneath it nonetheless. This waterfall was even bigger than the last one--almost 90m and very powerful!
On our way down to the third and largest waterfall our guide decided that since it wasn't raining yet, and since we were such good hikers (such a lie--we'd been slipping and sliding in the mud up and down the mountain all morning while he hopped around safely in his galoshes) we could do an extra leg of the hike to see another pair of waterfalls. We thought that sounded great, but should have asked more closely when he said they were "not far".
When we got there the view was GORGEOUS and we could see for miles across the plains of Uganda and into Kenya, but we all about had heat stroke by the time we reached the vista. (We voted to not actually hike out to them since it had taken us almost an hour in the scorching sun to get there.)
Along this alternate path we picked up lots of kids who rarely saw mzungus. After the usual shy greetings and giggles they would follow us for 1/4-1/2 a mile before giggling more and running off. We were sure they were making fun of us for being so out of shape...or just looking weird in general.
We walked back to our hotel and along the top of the final waterfall. To go beneath it you need to rappel down the cliff, and while that sounded totally awesome and fun we were a) exhausted and b) too poor. Instead we met a boy and his pet chameleon Joseph! They were both adorable.
In all the hike was only 5hrs or so, but we were again so exhausted we were useless the rest of the day. We just hung around the hotel and chatted with all the other people visiting, and then left early the next morning to journey back to Kampala.
Sipi Fall was a gorgeous place to visit, and worth going to for sure. We recommend not going immediately after getting your butt kicked by the Nile and hopefully you'll be far less sore by the time you leave!
